Barrington Ayre · Bespoke Tailoring
Everything you need to choose the perfect British or Irish tweed — from Highland field wear to Cheltenham racecourse elegance.
Suits · Jackets · Coats · Field WearIn 1826, a London cloth merchant received a shipment of woven wool "Tweels" — the Scots dialect word for twill — from weaver William Watson & Sons of Hawick. The handwriting on the label was less than clear, and the merchant read it as Tweed.
"Tweed made complete sense — these cloths were used by gentlemen for shooting and fishing on the banks of the very river of that name."
When the merchant reordered his "Tweeds", Watson chose not to correct the mistake. Recognising a brilliant piece of accidental branding, he adopted the term for his mill's high-quality sporting cloths — and a textile legend was born.
Hawick, Scottish Borders
The Home of Tweed — standing just metres from where William Watson himself first wove the cloth that changed textile history.
River Teviot, Hawick · Scottish Borders
Situated on the banks of the Teviot, Lovat Mill is the true originator of tweed as we know it. Their designs draw directly from the surrounding moors and countryside — every shade calibrated for a specific landscape, whether you're stalking in the Highlands, shooting on the east coast, or fishing in the west. Four main collections, each purpose-built for a different level of use.
21oz · 640g/m · Teflon showerproof finish
The most robust tweed in the Lovat range. Tightly woven from the highest quality wools with a Teflon showerproof finish, the Ettrick has long been the choice of gamekeepers, estate workers and anyone who shoots in all weathers. Rich colour mixtures and tightly twisted yarns give it real character as well as performance.
16oz · 500g/m · Crisp handling
A bold, single cheviot cloth with rich colour mixtures and striking patterns. Beautifully weatherproof and one of our most popular choices for Cheltenham Gold Cup racing suits — the weight gives excellent structure for a three-piece. Works from September through to March, though it's on the lighter side for truly brutal winter conditions.
13–14oz · 430g/m · Worsted merino & cheviot blend
Lovat's lightest offering and a true all-year-round cloth. First established in the early 1900s, this quality combines worsted merino with fine cheviot woollen yarns for a light yet robust fabric. Hugely popular as a classic tweed sports jacket, a wedding suit, or a truly versatile three-piece where jacket, waistcoat and trousers can all be worn separately.
Heavy coating weight · Multiple patterns
A specialist coating range woven to the same exacting standards as Lovat's celebrated tweeds. Enduring quality in a time of change. We have produced a number of magnificent ladies' cosy coats and men's field coats from this range — the weight and structure are simply perfect for outerwear with real presence.
Chipping Norton · Cotswolds
In the heart of the Cotswolds, where limestone villages rise from rolling pasture, William Bliss built more than a textile mill — he built a legacy. Founded in the nineteenth century, his grand stone mill became one of the most distinctive industrial landmarks in the region. The cloth it produced was never made for fashion houses or fleeting trends. It was created for landowners, farmers, sportsmen and country gentlemen — garments built to endure rain, wind, bracken and saddle. A superb option for those who want their clothing rooted in true countryside heritage.
Fashion-forward · Wool/Cashmere blend
For those who love the look of tweed but aren't planning to wear it out in the field, the Glenesk range is one of our most popular offerings. A ridiculously soft, wool and cashmere blended tweed that makes truly gorgeous suits and jackets. At 11oz, it drapes beautifully throughout the year — cool-summer evenings through to winter with knitwear underneath. The colour palette is timeless, and some of the most exciting garments we've ever made have come from this cloth.
Ed Harcourt — musician and Sophie Ellis-Bextor songwriter — wears a double-breasted bespoke suit in Glenesk brown houndstooth 19038. The Glenesk is that kind of cloth: it attracts creative, individual clients who want something genuinely special.
Made for mud, rain and open skies
John Porter and Bill Harding were never happier than when sloshing through mud with a view of hills or water. Both men loved hunting, shooting and fishing. After the Second World War, they set up their own company to make the sports clothes they actually wanted to wear. Their cloth continues to use the techniques they developed — built for genuinely wild days outdoors.
Cheviot wool · One of the tightest weaves available
Spun from Cheviot sheep's wool — renowned for its hard-wearing qualities — the Thornproof has one of the tightest weaves you'll find anywhere. It protects from harsh weather, thistles and thorns (hence the name). A Donegal-inspired look: plainer base with coloured flecks throughout. Brilliant for both fashion and field clothing, and incredibly durable.
Heaviest weight · Smooth & rough yarn combination
The combination of smooth and rough yarns twisted together gives Hartwist both its colour depth and exceptional strength. The heaviest fabric in the Porter & Harding range — perhaps a touch heavy for a racing suit unless you run cold — but perfect for robust outerwear. Has been extraordinarily popular for our bespoke tweed ski suits.
14oz · Bold checks & colours
A more colourful range with some bold checks that really stand out. At 14oz, this is one of our most popular choices for racing suits and smart jackets. If you want something a little braver — something that turns heads at the races or a country wedding — this could be exactly the cloth for you.
Light weight · Luxury finish · Classic colours
Classic Porter & Harding country colours and patterns, reimagined in a lightweight luxury cloth for warmer climates and city living. As the name suggests, it's pitched at the warmer months. Enormously popular for summer weddings and as standalone jackets — the colour and design range is perfectly judged for spring and summer wear.
"The quintessential English cloth — combining three centuries of traditional technique with a softness that rivals the finest Harris Tweed."
Fox Brothers · Est. 1772 · The original creators of flannelWellington, Somerset · Producing cloth entirely in England since 1772
Originally established in 1772 and officially credited as the original creators of flannel, Fox Brothers holds a pattern archive stretching back to its foundation. Fox Tweed uses classic techniques to produce a much softer feel than most mill tweeds — more in the direction of Harris Tweed. The glen check designs are stunning and are enormously popular as jackets. At the higher end in terms of price, but the quality is immediately apparent. We have also made some truly exceptional coats in Fox Tweed.
One of the UK's last vertical woollen mills
Moon are one of the rare remaining vertical woollen mills in Britain, meaning they control everything — raw wool to finished fabric — on a single site. Possibly a more fashion-led range than some of the field mills, but their plainer tweeds have been enormously popular with our customers. The colours are stunning: earthy greens and browns that are particularly stylish. Especially popular with female customers for coats.
Merino wool · Luxurious smooth feel · Drapes beautifully
The softest cloth in the Moon range, with a smooth, tactile handle and a wonderful drape. Merino wool is renowned for its natural softness and practical attributes. Hugely popular as the fabric for tweed wedding suits — the suit photographs beautifully and wears with extraordinary comfort throughout a long day.
Shetland-type wool · Up to 8 fibre-dyed shades per yarn
Gloriously soft — just a shade coarser than the Merino range — with exceptional colour depth. Each yarn contains up to eight individual fibre-dyed shades in the blend, which gives Shetland cloth its unique richness. Will break in and improve with wear. Superb for wedding suits and country garments that will last a lifetime.
Heavier weight · Vibrant colours · Stock supported
One of our most popular ranges, especially for ladies' coats. The colours are so vibrant and timeless — a range that lets you genuinely express personality through what you wear. The heavier weight provides real utility and durability, while the naturally resistant properties of Shetland-type wool create a coat that ages beautifully. Highly recommended.
Mixed fibres · Textured appearance · Chanel-inspired
For those feeling nostalgic or a little braver — think Chanel, and you won't be far wrong. Coco Chanel brought tweed into high fashion in 1926, introducing a textured tweed jacket that would define elite women's fashion through the 1950s. Moon's Couture range captures exactly that spirit: luxurious, textured, unmistakably elegant.
Woven in the Outer Hebrides · Lewis & Harris · 15–16oz · 150cm width
One of the most recognisable tweeds in the world, woven on the islands of Lewis and Harris off the western coast of Scotland — where tweed has been produced for many centuries. Harris Tweed carries genuine protected status; every roll is inspected and certified by the Harris Tweed Authority.
A word of caution: Harris Tweed is loosely woven, which gives it its distinctive texture but means it is more likely to catch and snag in the field. We'd steer clear for shooting and sporting use. Where it truly excels is as a classic tweed jacket — and as you'll see from our clients, it can also make a magnificent suit. At 15–16oz, it sits at a versatile mid-weight.
Ardara, Co. Donegal · Atlantic northwest coast of Ireland
Built on the solid foundations of six generations of the Molloy family, this father-and-son team are synonymous with what great craft looks like today. Located on the dramatic Atlantic northwest coast in Ardara — the heart of Donegal tweed country — their inspiration comes directly from the ocean, the sky, and the hills and mountains surrounding them.
Donegal Tweed is most recognisable by its plain base with a random pattern of differently coloured flecks running through the fabric. The Molloy & Sons selection is a superb choice if you want something a little different but still deeply traditional. The colours are dynamic and stylish — the cloth works brilliantly as a suit, and the heavier weights are perfect for a coat.
Very rare · Only a handful of tailors stock this cloth
A little personal story: whilst fishing on the Glenlyon in Scotland some years ago, I was introduced in the local pub to the owner of the estate — who had just purchased the struggling local tweed mill. Over a couple of whiskies, a wonderful relationship was born.
Glenlyon is a traditional mill, focused entirely on field-based tweeds drawn from the colours of the local moors. They are a small operation and produce very few swatch books — not many tailors carry their cloth at all. We are fortunate to be one of them. If you want something genuinely individual, this is the mill.
17oz · 500g/m · Traditional Scottish weave
The most popular Glenlyon weight with our clients. Chosen for jackets, shooting suits, racing suits and wedding suits alike. Despite being 17oz, a traditional Scottish weave means it feels slightly lighter than the number suggests. Definitively an Autumn/Winter weight — equally at home in the field or as a more fashionable piece. Our strong recommendation for anyone wanting an individual cloth.
12oz · 350g/m · Soft handle
A genuinely lightweight tweed with a fantastic colour palette. Very popular with female customers and a brilliant option for spring and summer weddings. Items made from this cloth will be rare and individual — Glenlyon is simply not widely available, and the lightweight range in particular attracts clients who truly want something no-one else will have.
27oz · 775g/m · Maximum protection
The heaviest cloth in the Glenlyon range and one of the heaviest tweeds available anywhere. Traditional Scottish landscape colours — calibrated for the different regions, moors and skies of Scotland. Absolutely brilliant for field coats, overcoats and for those who shoot in genuinely cold and bad weather. A serious cloth for serious conditions.
Quick reference
A summary comparison of the main collections to help you decide.
| Cloth | Weight | Durability | Softness | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ettrick (Lovat) | 21oz | Gamekeeping, field coats | ||
| Kirkton (Lovat) | 16oz | Racing suits, Cheltenham | ||
| Teviot (Lovat) | 13oz | Sports jackets, weddings | ||
| Glenesk (Standeven) | 11oz | Fashion suits, all seasons | ||
| Thornproof (P&H) | Heavy | Field use, plain suits | ||
| Merino (Moon) | Mid | Wedding suits, luxury wear | ||
| Harris Tweed | 15–16oz | Classic jackets, casual suits |
Common questions
For an all-year versatile suit, 11–14oz is the sweet spot — lightweight enough for warmer months but with enough substance to feel like proper tweed. For autumn and winter suits, racing wear and smart occasions, 16oz provides excellent structure. For shooting suits and serious field use, 17–21oz gives the durability and weather resistance you actually need.
Abraham Moon's Merino and Shetland ranges are perennial favourites for weddings — the Merino in particular drapes beautifully and photographs wonderfully. The Teviot from Lovat Mill is also a fantastic choice, as is the Glenesk cashmere blend from Standeven for something especially luxurious and soft.
The Kirkton from Lovat Mill and the Glenroyal from Porter & Harding are our most requested choices for Cheltenham Gold Cup week and race meetings generally. Both offer excellent structure for a three-piece and come in designs that have real presence on the racecourse.
Absolutely. The Glorious Twelfth from Porter & Harding, the Glenesk from Standeven (wool/cashmere blend at 11oz), and the Teviot from Lovat Mill are all light enough to wear comfortably through warmer months. Tweed need not be a purely autumn and winter fabric.
We would steer clear of Harris Tweed for field sports. It is a loosely woven cloth — which gives it its beautiful, distinctive texture — but this makes it prone to catching and snagging on bracken, thistles and thorns. For shooting and outdoor field use, the Ettrick from Lovat or the Thornproof from Porter & Harding are far better suited.
Donegal tweed is most easily identified by its plain base cloth with random flecks of different colours running through it — these are created by introducing coloured fibres during the spinning process. The Molloy & Sons selection from Ardara is our recommended Donegal choice: traditional in character but with a colour palette that feels genuinely modern.
